Viana to Navarrete part two

My longest walk to date 23 km, but the terrain was kind to both knees and feet!

I passed through a wild life reserve, I suppose in England we would call it an area of Outstanding Natural Beauty….

There was a lake Plantano de La Granjera…..

And swans and ducks…..

And eagles, and a rather tame rabbit, and to my absolute delight a red squirrel…..

At the end of the lake a Pilgrims fountain…

This path to Navarrete reminded me of a painting I did several years ago and immediately gives me the idea of doing the Camino with paints and canvas…..

Things are looking up could I be entering Proper wine country, I put this photo in for Eva and Marcel….

I reached Logrona by 10;15 and my first sight of this amazing place was the roaring river down stream…..

From this magnificent bridge…

Happiness really is a yellow arrow, a cockle shell, anything to point the way….. I am completely lost and end up at the Cathedral (locked) …..

A nice bronze of a couple of modern day pilgrims though……

Notice she’s in front of him……

To say that at this point I lost my way is an understatement, but there are very many kind people in this world and after dozens of enquiries, all met with the upmost kindness I was once again on the right road…

And thankfully out of the bustling city, and back on a country track that led me to Navarrete and the ruins of the Antigua Hospital de Peregrinos “San Juan de Acre” a beautiful peaceful place……

Here I met a Spanish Pilgrim that had been just behind me for some of the way, He told me I was “fit”and that he couldn’t really keep up with me. I can here my boys chuckle at the thought that their mother is “fit”……..

And then things really began to look up….

And only another 576 km to Santiago……

I am in Navarrete at last and everywhere there are bronze statues, here a potter…..

There a couple looking over the road, there a woman dangling her feet in the fountain….

And there in the square the Church dedicated to the assumption of Mary, first began in 1533, and one of the most outstanding classical buildings in the region……

And, and, and…… not locked, and filled with the warmth of welcome. All along my journey I have pondered at the locked churches, here is one with the door open wide. I felt almost unworthy to be entering, I had tried so many church doors, I was becoming quite paranoid!

Inside there is a table that asked pilgrims to write their names on a piece of paper and pin it to the place you have come from, not many from England this year and I was certainly the only Norfolk candidate. I wrote an RIP for Bernard on the back of my slip of paper and pinned it as near to Sedgeford as I could. As requested I wrote in the visitors book, and thanked the powers that be for the unlocked door.

I then went into the body of the Church and sat for a while, and I was so taken by surprise, me the strong pilgrim, the one shedding her burden of grief with every step of the way, sat in that beautiful church and sobbed my heart out, not in a delicate lady-like fashion but heart rendering sobs, snotty nose the lot, still aching for his arms around me….. a feeling that this grief is a burden that I think I shall never be able to lay down…..


After drying my red pitiful eyes I went to the supermarket, where I met a German pilgrim, and we sat together in the square to eat our lunch. We laughed at our bags of goodies, his seeded bread, tuna and fruit, mine red wine, crisps and chocolate, he Told me that he was thirty, his knees were giving trouble, his feet had so many blisters that he’d had to seek medical attention, and had to have antibiotics, mine a rubbish diet? I rest my case!

Love Susan x

This entry was posted in Architecture, Art, bereavement, churches, Country Life, death, friendship, HIstory, The Camino de Compostela and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to Viana to Navarrete part two

  1. Weishi says:

    Dear Susan:

    We are really amazed by your accomplishments. Today we are staying in Belorado, a very small town. We have been told that in San Juan de Ortega all the hostels will stayed closed till next Wednesday. So we are thinking of going to Atapuerca. But we will definitely stay longer and have a big celebration in Burgos. 🙂 Today I even got sunburnt and I look compltely red.:)

    Big hugs and lots of love from Tim and Clear water 🙂


    • Thank you Clear Water and Tim, here are my next few stops today I walk to Najera,
      23rd Corunna: 24th Belorado: 25th Villafranca; 26th Atapuerca: 27th Burgos: 28th rest day in Burgos. So it looks like Im about 2-3 days behind you. Be safe you guys and above all be at peace and full of joy love Sudan x x.


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