Day 14 Navarrete to Najera

It is rumoured that any pilgrim staying in the Rioja region has a great deal of difficulty finding there rooms after sampling the local wine, my hostel has is all sorted….

Just wish I had my glasses……

I left Navarrete at about nine, there was a bitterly cold wind and it was very cloudy, but no rain and a few precious bursts of sunshine along the way. This next photo is actually a cemetery, but the facade was moved here from the old San Juan de Acre Hospital which was originally built in 1185. it’s a mixture of Gothic and Romanesque, so its really hard to put an exact age on it, but it’s just beautiful…….

Set in the stone work are pilgrim plaques, all self explaining, here the pilgrim……

Not absolutely sure of the naked lady, explanations invited ……..

And here is the pilgrim’s staff and a gourd to carry water (or wine!) ……

At this point the track was good, wide and firm, but no shelter to keep the cold wind at bay, soon I was walking through vineyards, looked over by the traditional saints……

More Rosemarie to scent my journey, and put me once again in the way of remembering those I never knew………

More vineyards, more Rioja growing to tickle our palettes. At this monument I placed a stone for Bernard, one that I had picked up on Hunstanton beach and brought with me …..

It looked so white against all the other stones……

Now here’s a conundrum at the entrance to this vineyard near to Najera it quite clearly states that it’s 593 km to Santiago……

yet as I walked into Navarrete yesterday it clearly stated that it was 576 km to Santiago…

Am I going the long way round?

The vineyard also boasted this Ancient Olive tree, I can’t begin to guest how old it is………

The next little shrine puzzled me, the usual, stones and prayers, poems and photographs, and shoes, worn out shoes. It makes me want to write a story along the lines of here in the middle of nowhere are shoes and, and, and, well, then what happens?

A steep and rocky climb……..

And then there I was at the top of the world, and could see for miles around…..

The vineyard workers were out in full force today, running small hoses along the roots of the vines, do they know something we don’t? May a heatwave tomorrow?

Now here is something for the boys…. the boss man seeing me inspecting these round drum-like objects and sensing my curiosity…….went into great detail to show me that they are mini irrigation pumps, each pump has its own little solar panel and also a sensor, so that the water automatically flows once the ground reaches a certain dryness. At least I think that’s what he said, my Spanish is non existent, he cold have been asking me to get off his land otherwise he’d put me in the irrigation system and I’d be lost forever; but if that was the case he said it very nicely…..

Strange things happen on the Camino, I saw only one other pilgrim again today and he whizzed by me on a bicycle, with a quick “Buen Camino” he was soon just a dot on the horizon. Then, on a long lonely stretch of the path, I came across a a shelter, built like a very old fashioned beehive, but much bigger and looking as if it was of fairly new construction. I went to take a closer look, and the nearer I got the more I imagined I could hear music, well it wasn’t my imagination……

Yup, a man in a giant beehive playing his guitar just for the pure joy of making music, I listened for a while and wished everyone I know could share this moment. (I did take a short video, but alas it won’t download). I wished him peace, and he wished me a Buen Camino and I went on down the long winding hill to Najera, a charming place with a wide, fast running, river, and lots of bars and cafes and yes, that rare find on the Camino, a church that was open,……

Another beautiful peaceful place to rest and contemplate…….

And as I came out of the church, swallows were swooping around the square, the sun suddenly came out and the world seemed a very good place to be in; a perfect moment in time to keep and treasured in my heart……

Love Susan x

This entry was posted in Architecture, churches, friendship, HIstory, Rosemary, The Camino de Compostela, the way of St James, walking, Wine and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

5 Responses to Day 14 Navarrete to Najera

  1. Sonia Bachvarova says:


    Sent from my iPad



  2. there with you Susan, no long or short way, just the way………………..xx


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