Day 19, Atapuerca to Burgos

Part Two

The day did not bode well. As in the case of many of these small Inns and Hostels breakfast is laid out on a ready to help ones self . Today there was milk and a microwave, to make Cafe con leche. A bottle of water, a flask of hot water, a flask of coffee, little packets of butter and jam, a covered dome of ham and cheese, a bread board and knife.

The tables are set out for the right number of guests. Each table had a mug, plate, spoon and pre-packed croissant.

We heard our fellow pilgrims getting up about 6:30 am, they were not walking but cycling the Camino. The old Inn creaked so much that at times it sounded as if our room was about to be invaded.

Hatty and I got packed and were down stairs for breakfast about 8 am, and naturally took up our places at the only clean table. Then we examined the buffet breakfast, there was a very little ham left a very little cheese, plenty of butter and jam sachets, and about a 3″ end of bread. The cyclists were getting their bikes ready outside, there were no owners to ask for more bread, the place was deserted. Hatty and I split the bread between us, and then did our best to eat the prepackaged cardboard croissant (we both failed). The cyclists were coming back and forth filling there flasks and bottles with coffee and water and, we strongly suspect, that the bread meant for us had been made into sandwiches for their lunches. It certainly looked as if locusts had descended the food table. We were surprised that there was no one on duty to replenish any supplies and we both agreed this was a very poor start to our day. And as quaint as the Inn was, the beds were uncomfortable, the room tiny and the shower room only adequate.

We set off, wrapped up warm against the thick fog that had descended the valley, and we had to walk through the fog for most of the morning, so Hatty’s excitement at seeing the wonderful scenery which we knew was out there just beyond the mist soon turned to disappointment……

But this flock of sheep were a delight……

I have never seen such pristine white sheep ever, and believe me I’ve seen quite a few sheep in my time!

Adding to this delight we heard the unmistakable bleed of a lamb…..

Hard to see in the fog but it’s just to the right of the black sheep, a little black lamb snuggled down close to its mother……

Just outside Atapuerca at the top of a hill stands this cross, we place a pebble from old Hunstanton beach with Bernard’s name on it amongst the other pebbles and I read the poem……

We stopped for coffee on the outskirts of Burgos and then proceeded to make our way through sprawling suburbia, which seemed to go forever, pavements are hard on the feet. The mist had lifted by now and the sun was shinning. Our hotel tonight is a much grander affair with a large room, and (what joy) a shower and a bath, and it’s only a stones throw from the Rio Arlanzon, suddenly the city was bathed in the promise of spring …..

Yesterday, fellow pilgrim, Eric asked me how he thought we would feel when we reached Santiago, would it be a huge let-down when we go back to our normal lives. Of course, for me, normal is a completely different thing to what “normal” was for me only a year ago. I’m looking for a new normal, a different normal. I don’t think I shall ever stop being a pilgrim, I shall be a pilgrim for the rest of my life, what form that will take I don’t know, but by the end of this Pilgrimage I hope I shall know……..Love Susan x

This entry was posted in Architecture, bereavement, HIstory, The Camino de Compostela, the way of St James, walking and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

4 Responses to Day 19, Atapuerca to Burgos

  1. beta44 says:

    We’re very pleased for you to have Hattie’s company for a few days although it will be hard for you when she leaves. Very glad that the sun is shining on you from time to time. Love P&B


  2. Weishi says:

    That is the same flock of sheep which have accompanied us to pass by the cross and to go down the hill. I love those Camino sheep. 🙂 I also brought the picture of my grandparents to the cross, who have passed away last year. For me Camino is not only about self-discovery but also cherishing the great memories of the persons you love.

    Enjoy Burgos and Buen Camino!
    Best regards

    The Clear Water


    • Hello you two, that’s lovely, by the time I get home the fields around my house will be filled with the heavenly bleating of little lambs, can’t beat that sound of new life; are you back in Germany now ? X x x

      the time


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