Day 26: Calzada de la Cruze to Moratinos

A sad and tearful day today! No particular reason it just is…..

I was sad to leave the hostel and sad to leave it’s owners’ who literally welcome we Pilgrims with open arms, I loved the greenery that flowed from the upper landing to the ground floor, it is a house very well loved as are all that enter there ……

Although not everything was quite to my taste……

There were quite a number of pilgrims that had stayed overnight, and after breakfast we wished each other a “Buen Camino” and went our separate ways. The forecast said that there was a 50% chance of rain and for the first little while, although dull and threatening, the rain held off, and awaking in such low spirits I was determined to find things that would bring me joy….

Pussy willow……

Lichen on the path side bushes……

A babbling brook ……..

Then the rain came, not gentle showers but in horizontal slices that soaked through to the skin, always in my face and stinging at my eyes. The Camino seemed deserted, there was no way of knowing if pilgrims were in front or behind, suffice to say that today I walked alone with no one in front or behind as far as I could see.

In less than three hours I arrived at this hostel and the welcoming was as ever —- welcoming, I have showered and changed, eaten……

Okay, the good food lovers nightmare, but extremely welcome by me, and I’m slightly ashamed to say that I gobbled up every bit…….

Now I am sitting on my bed absolutely freezing with fleeces and down jackets wrapped around me and watching the unrelenting rain battering against the windows……

The landscape in this area is frankly rather boring, but as Charlotte pointed out yesterday, one only has to lift up ones eyes to the sky to be rewarded by a magnificent affirmation of nature in all its glory and power….

This mound situated opposite the hostel, and on enquiring I discover that it is where the local wine is keep to mature, the fumes escaping from the chimney pots…

I just don’t get why there is a TV areal on one of the chimneys.?

My Day

It sort of begins the day before

When I arrive at my nights lodging, the first thing I do is check – bath or shower, a shower is nice, a bath? and I am ecstatic. So off come the walking clothes and, as they are often wet, or like today very wet, they have to be strategically placed often around the room to dry. So, once I’m clean and dry and in my second set of clothes which are reserved for the evenings and wash days, I go food hunting. In a big town or city there are lots of choices, anything from a pizza to the many restaurants that offer the 10€ pilgrims menu, which consists of 3 course plus wine or water, to fancy Michelin star restaurant. Having eaten I’m back to my room and my walking clothes have to be laid out ready for morning.

In the morning usually around 7am, I wake and, as usual, for those few split seconds I think that all is well in the world, then I have that crushing sensation that nothing can ever be well in my world again. But I have no time now for tears, I have some miles to cover; I get up and begin my morning ritual. Feet first and foremost, the first thing is to guard against blisters so I put the gel socks over my toes, then the duct tape on my heels, then come the knee braces, then the walking trousers and then after careful consideration and with regard to the weather forecast, I decide on the number of layers needed and dress in the rest of my clothes accordingly. Contact lenses in (often in front of a ill lit mirror,) I pack my bag, grab the usual breakfast of bread, jam and coffee, make sure I have the days map in my pocket and actually know where I am going. I’m then out in whatever weather is there to greet me and I go in search of and (up to now) find the Camino yellow arrows or scallop shells and I’m onwards and upwards for another day……

Today at the top of a long hill I saw another Pilgrims monument……

This is not how I want to finish my Camino and I begin to wonder how many have finished their Camino in this way….

There is a pilgrim on the Way that I come into contact with here and there. Her name, coincidently, is Susan, she’s tiny, hardly up to my shoulder and she is carrying a back-pack that looks almost as big as she is, and she is eighty years old. She stays in the municipal Auberges and sleeps in a dormitory with dozens of others, she shares the communal loos and showers. She looks so tired and I have to confess that I fear for her…….

Another pilgrim, a big strong marine, (who’s probably in Santiago by now) who’s pack weighs less than 2kg, (but he thought he might lighten it by dumping one of his two T-shirts!) ……

And yet another, who’s pack is huge and is topped with a solar panel presumably to charge phones etc and I wonder if it works on such a day as this…..

I have now covered almost 300 miles, and I wonder what, if anything, this journey has taught me. It’s certainly like no other experience. I have never before felt part of such a huge and loving community and I wish the whole world could show such love and fellowship with one another. It’s taught me that one is never alone, even when one is lonely. One just has to have the courage to reach out.

So to hope, joy and peace, I wish everyone courage, the courage to reach out………

Love Susan x

This entry was posted in Architecture, bereavement, death, friendship, HOPE, rain, Storms, strangers, The Camino de Compostela, the way of St James, walking and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

4 Responses to Day 26: Calzada de la Cruze to Moratinos

  1. beta44 says:

    A wonderful post that really communicated the feel of the Camino. Please keep on writing, we are following you in spirit. P&B


    • Thank you, it’s nice to know you are with me, it’s like talking to friends when I write my blog, and it’s so nice that you have actually walked the Camino and know why it’s so special. Much love x x.


  2. Lloyd Derrick says:

    A pleasure to read


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s