Day 39: O’ Cebreiro to Triacastel


which is a bit of a shock to me, which it maybe shouldn’t, after using and abusing them for 550 km. but why now?

I left O’Cebreiro at a few minutes past nine. My “rest” day being quite “restless” . The heating in my digs went off at 8:30am and came on again at 3pm so that left a whole cold hunk of the day to deal with. After perusing the tourist tack shops and having coffee, I seemed to have covered the whole hamlet, it could not be called a village. I decided to go to Church, as the service is entirely in Spanish, I have to confess that I went there to mainly to keep warm! Not that the Church was very warm but it was much warmer than the elements that assaulted me outside.

The little Church was packed, I took a seat at the very back, and very soon realised that one could easily follow the service just by the general flow of things. I soon realised that this was a special service with a very elderly couple renewing their marriage vows, it was special for me too, I felt totally at peace there, and was so pleased I had gone. I took a Pilgrims lunch at the place I was staying at, a large plate of spaghetti followed by chicken and chips, and the usual large quantity of Tinto. As I still hadn’t used up the time until 3pm (heating) I went back to my room, got into bed fully clothed a slept well until the heating came on and the heat disturbed my slumbers.

This morning breakfast was scheduled for 8:30, I arrived at the bar which was next door to my digs, and waited in the cold until the proprietor decided it was time to open up, breakfast consisted of carton orange juice, toast and olive oil and coffee. There were other pilgrims staying, but as soon as we all left the bar after breakfast the doors were locked and bared. It was the first time I have not felt welcomed since I began my journey.

I left O’Cebreiro with no regrets and, as the upper part of The Way was closed due to a heavy snowfall, had to walk down the road for a few kilometres before picking up the way again……

The first part of the journey was uphill, at times quite steep, and eventually I came to

With this amazing bronze overlooking the valley….

His view was spectacular…….

Soon I was on the downhill ‘run’ and although the heart stoped complaining the knees feet and hips got really “cross”, going down, through farmyards (and mud) through pretty villages with tiny Churches….

And views that made my heart ache…..

And sudden drifts of snow to be waded through….

And this, no idea what it is, but perhaps one of you know?

And from there I walked straight into summer, still very much down hill, but the complaining ankles, hips and knees were ignored when I reached a pretty lane with friendly curious cows….

And a beautiful calf…..

And this pretty lane that to me seemed so very English……..

With Violets…….

And Periwinkles…..

And wild strawberries…

And fresh drinking fountains………

And the most photographed tree on the whole Camino……

This hundred year old Chestnut tree has a trunk the diameter of which is more than 8 meters and some of the trunks interwoven here are more than 800 years old. It’s ancient nooks and crannies have provided Pilgrims with shelter, but more especially one thinks about the enormous amount of things this wonderful tree must have bore witness to over so many years ……..

Love Susan x

This entry was posted in churches, Country Life, Farming, HIstory, snow, The Camino de Compostela, the way of St James, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to Day 39: O’ Cebreiro to Triacastel

  1. beta44 says:

    We are pretty sure that the building on little legs is a grain or fruit store, designed to keep rats and mice away. That’s why there are mushroomed tops to the legs. P xx


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s